Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

I toyed with a few song titles for this vintage report including “Why does it always rain on me” and “You can’t always get what you want” before settling on “I can’t stand the rain” accurately reflecting how we felt about the season and acknowledging the recent death of the great Tina Turner. You will gather from that and the seasonal data above that the 22-23 growing season was both mild and very wet. Heat units were in the normal range but rainfall exceeded all previous growing seasons for which we have records. To put that in context, the growing season total of 682mm is not far off our average long-term annual rainfall! What made it more challenging was that the rainfall was evenly spread across the growing season so we didn’t get any sustained dry periods for favourable ripening. While heat units were adequate they don’t tell the whole story as, when it wasn’t raining, humid and cloudy days dominated and sunshine hours were few and far between. 2023 was truly the Summer that wasn’t.

The weather presented huge challenges for the vineyard team throughout the growing season. They had to deal with excessive weed and canopy growth, disease pressure and narrow windows of opportunity to get much-needed sprays applied. It is to their credit that reasonable quality fruit, and in some cases better quality fruit, was able to be harvested and delivered to the winery. The positive story of the 2023 vintage is the quality of the white varieties and Rose which, while not exceptional, will still allow us to produce sufficient volumes of good quality wines for our main Nga Waka label. Pinot Noir was not so fortunate and while “sugar-ripe”, the rain and lack of sunshine hours has only provided grapes capable of producing lighter, pretty wines without the structure and complexity we require for our top labels. Accordingly, there will be no single vineyard or Nga Waka label Pinot Noir from the 2023 vintage.

Although El Nino years present different challenges, the prediction that we are moving in that direction and away from the disruptive La Nina phase will, I think, be welcomed by every New Zealand grapegrower and winemaker. Roll on 2024!

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

June 2023

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

The title of this vintage report doesn’t allude to the mental state of the winemaker (although there were moments!) but more to the compressed nature of this year’s harvest. A roller coaster of a growing season carried through to harvest with grapes ripening in a narrow window and with the threat (and reality) of rain hovering. Staffing challenges and Covid added to the mix and it was to everyone’s credit that the crop was picked and processed in a two week window from 17 March to 1 April. In contrast to almost everything else, yields ended up almost bang on long-term averages.

In reverse of last year, the first half of the 21-22 growing season was, despite a wet December, near to perfect. Flowering conditions were benign and a big crop seemed likely. The second half of the growing season was more challenging as a look at the rainfall tally for February and March confirms with February in particular receiving twice as much rain as the previously wettest February of the last ten years. While heat units were at the upper end of the range they were not exceptional and certainly sufficient to ripen the crop. As our harvest dates have gradually shifted earlier the impact of February rain has become more pronounced as grapes that are nearly ripe are more susceptible to fungal diseases (botrytis) and splitting. That was certainly the case this year and a lot of work dropping diseased fruit was required to protect the clean fruit that was subsequently harvested. This reduced the crop to a more average size and meant that further rain over harvest was more of an annoyance than negatively impacting quality.

In summary then, despite the variable growing conditions and significant pre-vintage rainfall the condition of the harvested grapes held up surprisingly well and while mixed, the overall quality is sound and the best parcels are very good indeed. My assessment of the 2022 vintage is that the wines are likely to be more fruit forward and perhaps less structured than usual which will make for earlier enjoyment and a shorter cellaring requirement. The exception to that prediction is the top label components which will continue to be selected for structure and ageing potential even if that means smaller volumes of those wines. Finally, while the overall quality is solid rather than outstanding, there will be gems from the 2022 vintage for those prepared to search them out.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

April 2022

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

The title of this vintage report will alert you to the main story of vintage 2021 – there wasn’t much of it! Thanks (if that’s the right word) to cool, damp weather over the key weeks of flowering, yields ultimately ended up down 50% overall compared to an average yielding year.

Ironically, conditions over the second half of the growing season were near to perfect and we certainly could have ripened a much more substantial crop (deep sigh). Small crops generally ripen earlier and the recent trend for earlier harvests was reinforced with our earliest ever start and finish dates. To put that in context, over our first 20 vintages not one harvest would have started by the date we finished picking this year! The small crop was the key factor in the early start and finish but it’s also time to recognize that climate change is shifting our seasons as we are now on average starting picking two weeks earlier than even 10 years ago.

Now the more cheerful news – the benign ripening conditions delivered fantastic fruit into the winery and it might not be too much of an exaggeration to say that the quality may be inversely proportional to the yield. Over the years we have had several great “pair” vintages: 2000 and 2001; 2005 and 2006; 2009 and 2010; 2013 and 2014. My feeling is that 2020 and 2021 will be remembered as another great “pair”. So, not much of it, but 2021 will offer much to look forward to on the quality front.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

June 2021

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

I’ve always wanted to use a Hunter Thompson quote and the 2020 vintage presented the perfect opportunity with the impact of Covid-19 and subsequent lockdown and social distancing requirements presenting some unique challenges and a distinctly different and weird normal for vintage.

Turning to the season itself, the temperature records show a pretty typical year with growing degree days tracking around the average and no extended or extreme hot spells. Although there were several frosty nights they were all radiation frosts rather than the more destructive advective frosts (see 2019 vintage report) and were successfully negotiated by our frost fans with no crop damage. So, from a temperature perspective the season was ideal for ripening and quality.

The real story of the growing season is the rainfall and the extended dry period from late December until mid-March. The overall growing season rainfall total looks very typical but breaking it down shows that from late December until mid-March we had an exceptionally dry period with barely 35mm of rain over warmest 12 weeks of the season. This dry spell was challenging due to water restrictions but the silver lining was that when the rain finally arrived in the middle of harvest, with ~150mm over 3 days, the complete absence of fungal infection events over the dry spell saw the vines sail through the wet with no botrytis or berry-splitting which is extraordinary given the carnage we would normally expect from that volume of rain during harvest. A minor miracle.

The other upside of the dry, moderately warm year, is that across the board, quality is outstanding with bright, concentrated flavours in the white varieties and Rose and remarkable colour, texture and depth of flavour in the Pinot Noir. I haven’t been as excited about a vintage at this stage since the classic 2000 vintage. As always, time will tell, but we may well see some legendary Martinborough wines from the 2020 vintage. A season where the going definitely got weird but the outcome is decidedly pro.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

June 2020

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

A rather typical season in many respects with one glaring exception. A major advective (cold air mass) frost in October took out most of our largest vineyard, Pirinoa Block. The cold air mass settled to the South of Martinborough and around Te Muna while the vineyards around the Martinborough township were largely spared. We lost all the Chardonnay and most of the Pinot Noir at Pirinoa Block.

Good rainfall up to Xmas 2018 set the vineyards up well for what was a very dry Summer. Heat units (growing degree days) were above average but cooler than 2018. Rainfall over harvest caused some minor inconvenience but we were largely able to pick on desired ripeness without having to factor in disease pressure. The wines of 2019 will be full-flavoured, fine-structured and elegant with good ageing potential. All in all, a classic Martinborough vintage.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

July 2019

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

Unlike 2017, the numbers really do tell the story of the 2018 growing season and vintage. The early part of the season was unremarkable, slightly dryer than normal and next to no frost events. Flowering conditions were perfect and, in the absence of strong winds, a potentially very large crop was set. December and January were the hottest of either month in the last ten years and with average rainfall keeping the vines ticking over, excitement was mounting that an outstanding, and large, vintage was in the offing.

February remained warm but, with three times average February rainfall and high humidity, we saw some crop losses to fungal infections (botrytis). Fortunately, March reverted to normal rainfall allowing the affected berries to dessicate and drop off, leaving the clean fruit to keep ripening. Temperatures in March continued the above average trend and it was clear that harvest would be early.

We started harvesting on the 17th of March (our earliest ever start) and finished with Home Block Chardonnay on the 5th of April (when we would normally be only just getting going!). The early finish was fortuitous as the rest of April was very wet. Quality-wise, the 2018 vintage is a significant step up on 2017 with ripeness at the higher end of the range and more expressive flavours. The February rain did knock the edge off phenolic ripeness so not quite the masterpiece we were hoping for earlier in the season but a very good vintage nonetheless. I’m expecting generous-fruited, juicy wines to characterise the 2018 vintage.

Cheers.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

July 2018

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

Looking at the numbers above you might think the 2016-2017 season was slightly wetter and cooler than average but nothing too out of the ordinary and you would be dead wrong! Hence the old Mark Twain quote (attributed in the first instance to British PM Benjamin Disraeli) about there being three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics.

While the 2016 half of the growing season was unremarkable, the second half was anything but. Looking at the growing degree days, which measure accumulated heat above 10 degrees, the numbers certainly don’t tell the story of an exceptionally cool and cloudy Summer (if indeed Summer it was). Fruit set was patchy and the potential crop at the lower end of the range. Normally smaller crops are not something to enthuse about but this year, with the cool Summer, it meant ripening was not as delayed as it might have been.

After the cool,cloudy Summer we were hoping for a typically dry, warm Wairarapa Autumn but it was not to be. We picked our first grapes (Pinot Noir) in perfect conditions on the 2nd of April and then for the next 12 days we watched 125mm of rain drop out of the sky. The condition of the grapes held up remarkably well over this period but there is no doubt that dilution of sugars and flavours was a factor. Once the rain stopped picking commenced at pace to ensure we got grapes into the winery in the best condition possible – this was not the year to leave grapes hanging out in the hope of a late Indian Summer!

Replacing sugars from dilution is easily achieved in the winery (thanks Chelsea) but concentration and structure are another matter. Fruit flavours, while not as concentrated as usual, are correct and clean so the vintage will produce wines of good flavour but probably for earlier consumption. That is particularly true of the Pinot Noirs which have some lovely, bright berry flavours but not the tannin and structure we normally expect. Overall, a very challenging season and probably a better season for the white varieties than Pinot Noir.

Cheers,

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

September 2017

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

After the small 2015 vintage we were hoping for a bounce-back to more normal yields in 2016. Frost was an issue again in Spring but the wind machines proved their worth and we sustained minor damage but only in our Pirinoa Block.

Temperatures in the first half of the season were typical with not much wind. Flowering proceeded in benign conditions with a high proportion of flowers setting fruit, suggesting that a good crop was likely.

Rainfall was even lower than the dry 2015 making 2016 the driest growing season we’ve had in our 28 years of growing grapes! Coupling drought with the warmer than average temperatures of January to March meant that irrigation was absolutely essential to maintain a healthy vine canopy capable of ripening the crop. The 40mm of rain we received at the beginning of April was welcomed as much by grape growers as it was by farmers, setting us up nicely for vintage.

April saw the onset of harvest and cooler temperatures. Harvest proceeded without weather  or disease pressure and a generous, high quality crop was received by the winery. Across the  varieties, ripeness, flavour and balance were impeccable continuing a remarkable sequence of high quality vintages.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

August 2016

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

There’s always a danger with catch phrases like “small but perfectly formed” that somewhere in the past I’ve used it to describe a similar vintage. If I have, mea culpa!

The “small” part of the equation was established during the first half of the growing season with very cool and windy conditions prevailing right through until close to Christmas. If you compare seasonal Growing Degree Days, the heat units for October – December 2014 track very closely to the 2011-12 season which produced our last under-sized harvest.

Happily, the second half of the growing season was almost the opposite of the first half with some of the warmest, and certainly driest, months in recent history. Again, using the comparison with the 2011-12 season, for the first half of the 2014-15 season, heat units were behind 2011-12 but by the end of the season had reached 1148 compared to 988 for 2011-12. The smaller crop was further depleted by a couple of extreme wind events in January which hammered the vines and broke several posts. Irrigation was essential to maintain the vines ability to ripen the grapes and to help them recover from the wind damage. The latter part of the season was very benign and with the second half warmth, we commenced harvesting at our normal time, around the beginning of April. With the dry Summer, disease pressure was minimal and, despite some rain falling over harvest, the small crop of grapes came into the winery in perfect condition. Juice parameters (brix, pH, TA) were straight out of the text book and, more importantly, the juice flavours were both expressive and concentrated, “perfectly formed”.

There will only be small volumes of wine from vintage 2015 but, when released, they will be well worth seeking out.

Just a reminder re the Growing Degrees Days table above. Prior to 2013 I used the nearest dedicated weather station to provide the data for our Growing Degrees Days summary. It turns out that, due to its proximity to other structures, this weather station was likely to be over-stating temperature. The Growing Degree Days figures since 2013 are sourced from another local weather station that is set up in accordance with the rules that Metservice specify for siting weather stations. I haven’t re-calculated the earlier seasons but it is likely that, excepting the cold 2012 vintage, they will be ranged around the 2013 figure.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

August 2015

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Rainfall (mm)

 Growing Degree Days (heat units)

The two key statistics from the 2013-14 season are that we matched our earliest harvest date (24 March) and that the 2nd and 3rd weeks of April produced more rain than recorded for the entire month of April over the last 30 years. The early harvest ensured that the rain, which fell right when we would normally be picking, did not bother us, but it was certainly a close call.

The origin of the early vintage was a mild, frost-free Spring following on from a mild winter and the absence of any prolonged bouts of North-Westerly gales. The benign conditions had us a week to ten days ahead of normal throughout the season. Rainfall was minimal from Dec-Feb and, excluding a 40mm downpour in March, that month was dry as well so we had no disease pressure leading in to harvest. Flowering and set were exceptional and when our crop estimates showed some startlingly high potential crops we bit the bullet and thinned heavily, up to 30%, to ensure the vines would be able to ripen the crop and to protect fruit quality. Temperatures were slightly ahead of the very good 2013 season so we had every reason to be optimistic about vintage 2014. That optimism was not misplaced as we harvested grapes in perfect condition and in perfect weather.

It is unusual to have two outstanding vintages in a row and in my time here I can only recall 2000 and 2001 as comparable. As with those earlier vintages the latter of the pair, in this case 2014, looks slightly the better at this stage but it’s a quibble as both are excellent. Rain started falling heavily on the 8th of April and persisted for the next two weeks so we were grateful to have everything (one exception) under a roof by then. The only casualty was a few rows of Riesling we left out in the hope of producing a late harvest wine. Sadly the rain overwhelmed that plan and with ignoble rots substantially outnumbering noble rot (botrytis) the birds were given a late present.

Just a reminder re the Growing Degrees Days table above. Prior to 2013 I used the nearest dedicated weather station to provide the data for our Growing Degrees Days summary. It turns out that, due to its proximity to other structures, this weather station was likely to be over-stating temperature. The Growing Degree Days figures since 2013 are sourced from another local weather station that is set up in accordance with the rules that Metservice specify for siting weather stations. I haven’t re-calculated the earlier seasons  but it is likely that, excepting the cold 2012 vintage, they will be ranged around the 2013 figure.

Here are the average harvest parameters for each variety:

Roger Parkinson

May 2014

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